Finally, I made the effort to head out and catch some nice rides today. Sure it was busy out in the surf, the swell was good and everyone always wants to be at the right spot – in hope to catch the perfect wave. But that was no distraction for me to enjoy the sun in my face while been in the water again. Eventually, I paddled my way to a quitter spot where it felt like I had the sea to myself … love that feeling! Getting washed in the waves, having sore arms (from the paddling) or jumping into the cold water is ALWAYS worth it!
{Photos by Dane Peterson, David Greg & Keegan Gibbs}
























